Talk about saving the best for last. Yakushima was the last stop of our three weeks in Japan, and it was absolutely incredible.
Why did we go to Yakushima Island with Toddlers?
To forest bathe of course! I listened to an episode of Wild Ideas Worth Living back in 2017 and was introduced to the concept of forest bathing and how it originated in Japan. Fast foward to 2023 and we’re headed to Yakushima with toddlers!
We were also already considering checking out one of the south islands since we skipped the Hokkaido region on our three weeks in Japan. I was planning on tropical Okinawa but was hesitant because we already lived in a tropical beach location in Costa Rica. At the last minute Grant casually mentioned Yakushima was the best spot for forest bathing. Boom! It was booked. Knowing the kids would probably be getting burnt out of cities at this point in the trip, I was excited to touch some moss and smell some cedar!
Disclaimer: We lucked out on the weather in Yakushima which could be why we had such an amazing time. There is even a saying on the island that says there’s “35 days of rain in a month”! We had a rainy morning one day but then clear skies the rest of the trip! The sudden downpours and sunny skies combo reminded me a lot of Hawaii!
Getting to Yakushima Island with Toddlers
We flew Japan airlines from Fukuoka which only took about 1 hour, but when we left Yakushima we flew back to Tokyo which took over 3 hours.
Fun fact: Japan Airlines is very kid friendly and even gave Marin and Hobie model toy airplanes!
Getting around Yakushima Island with Toddlers
I definitely recommend a rental car on Yakushima. We rented form Navi Rent a Car and it was a very small and friendly operation! We even rented car seats. We didn’t bring Marin’s because we could rent a toddler size one easily when we needed to and we left Hobie’s infant carseat in Tokyo in a luggage storage place so we didn’t have to lug it around on all the trains and planes! (We only really wanted it for Hobie to sleep in on our long-haul flights to and from Atlanta.)
Where to Stay on Yakushima Island with Toddlers
Yakushima is small and you can circumnavigate the entire island in three hours! I decided to split up our accommodations and stay two nights on the south side and two nights on the north to reduce car time for the kiddos. This way if we wanted to see something on the opposite side of the island we wouldn’t be in the car for 3 hours roundtrip.
Insider Tip: Look up the road conditions and put some test routes into Google Maps before you go. When we were there the World Heritage Listed Coastal Road was closed on one end due to some falling rock, allowing the island loop to not be completed. It would be a bummer if you thought you were going 20 minutes and had to go 2 hours!
Staying on the South Side of Yakushima Island
Our first Airbnb was a cute cabin I absolutely adored it. From the smell of cedar and included yoga mats, to the pet goat and gorgeous mountain views. Did I mention the stars? They were amazing! And a highlight for the kids was making homemade Yakiniku one night on the outside fire pit.
Staying on the North Side of Yakushima Islan
Our second Airbnb was nice too. It even had an ocean view! But the first one had a better vibe. Since more of the attractions we liked were on the south side, I wish we just stayed there the whole time!
4 Day Yakushima Island Itinerary
We spent four nights on Yakushima Island and it was the perfect amount of time to explore the north and south side of the island.
Day 1 on Yakushima Island with Toddlers
This is a travel day so there’s not too much time but grab some supplies and start exploring!
Funny story: When we first arrived in Yakushima we stopped at a nearby grocery store because I wanted to get some breakfast and snack stuff since we were staying at an Airbnb, not a hotel. Marin and I ran in and were so surprised and delighted to see a robot cruising the aisles! Toddler Marin thought he was chasing us and we got a crack up!
Tashiro Coast and Pillow Lava
Drive only 10 minutes from the airport and it’s already so beautiful! The Tashiro Coast is full of tide pools and lava rocks to scramble over. We are always playing in the tide pools at home, so my boys loved it. We were the only ones there, so they stripped down and jumped in! They couldn’t wait to get in the ocean. It had been so long!
We checked into our Airbnb, grabbed an easy dinner at a nearby restaurant, and crashed (on tatami mats of course!)
Day 2 on Yakushima Island with Toddlers
This was the best day of our Yakushima adventure, the best day of our total three weeks in Japan, and possibly one of the best days of my life. It was a banger!
World Heritage Listed Coastal Road / Seibu Rindo
Explore the southwest coast starting with Seibu Rindo on the west side. This place is amazing! It’s literally just a road but it hugs the gorgeous coastline and there are monkeys and deer everywhere! They are just laying in the street, scratching each other’s backs, and playing. The kids loved it!
Segiri Waterfall
Stop on the side of the road to check out this pretty waterfall or park the car and go on a little self-guided hike. We even hopped in the cool pools for a refreshing swim!
Oko-no-taki Waterfall
Oko-no-taki Waterfall is easily accessible and quite impressive! There is a parking lot so you don’t have to hike or anything. Very easy with kids!
Hirachikaichu Onsen
An onsen is a Japanese hot spring, and this one happens to be in a tide pool! When the tide goes out, the remaining ocean water is heated up by thermal volcano rocks! Like many onsens this one is completely nude. Our kids were super young when we visited (ages 1 and 3) so they didn’t think anything of it. Getting naked outside midday with strangers is definitely getting out of your comfort zone, but totally worth it! Thankfully, there were few people there when we visited and of course everyone was being respectful.
You have to time this one right with low tide, I looked up when the tide was but didn’t keep a strict schedule and it ended up being absolutely perfect timing! Did I mention this was the best day ever yet?
Haruta Hama Swimming Beach
Wrap up the day with a sunset swim at Haruta Hama Swimming Beach. Expect sand and you’ll be disappointed, but this “beach” is still cool. It’s basically like a public swimming pool meets the ocean!
Day 3 on Yakushima Island with Toddlers
On the third day, we took a gradual road trip north to our second Airbnb along the east coast with tons of waterfalls and nature!
Ryujinno-taki Falls, Senpiro-no-taki Falls, and Torohki Falls
Day 3 is all about chasing waterfalls! (Sorry, TLC.) Pull over on the side of the road to admire the smaller Ryujinno-taki Falls on your way to the Senpiro-no-taki Falls.
Senpiro-no-taki Falls is truly impressive. When we were there it was pouring, but we carried on across the suspension bridge and up the stairs and it was still so much fun!
The next waterfall to stop at is Torohki Falls. You can park at the farmer’s market (JA Tanega Yaku Pontan-kan) and it is a short walk. This waterfall is the most beautiful color and the short hike is perfect for little ones. We got some souvenirs at the market afterward too!
Sarukawa Banyan Tree
Sarukawa Banyan Tree is only five minutes further down the road and is a perfect hike for kids. It’s takes about 15 minutes to get to the tree and it is so impressive. We had fun climbing all over it!
Yakusugi Land
Yakusugi Land is an easy hike through the mossy cedar trees. Some of these trees are ancient and it smells so good! Pack layers, it was pretty chilly when we were there in the late afternoon.
Drive up the road about 15 minutes further to see the 3000 year old Kigensugi Cedar!
Day 4 on Yakushima Island with Toddlers
We spent our last day exploring the north side of the island. Like the south side, it is also beautiful but it is very different so I recommend you check out both to get a full picture of what Yakushima Island is like!
Shiratani Unsuikyo Forest
This is most popular hiking area on Yakushima and it is awesome! There are several different trail options of varying difficulty. It is great for kids. The trails are well maintained and it has more ancient cedar trees!
Now we were forest bathing! Mossy stones, babbling brooks, and the smell of cedar all around. This place is idyllic. Not to mention the water is so pristine you can fill up your water bottle right from the mountain!
Isso Lighthouse
The lighthouse itself isn’t much to see, but the coastal views are stunning! It looked like the Na Pali coast! It’s a quick hike to the end and with the whipping wind we felt like we were on the edge of the world!
Yahazudake Shrine
This is a red Shinto shrine nestled in the side of a mountain on the ocean. It is absolutely beautiful and the combination of nature and religion feels sacred. It is a bit of a walk downhill but three year old Marin did it like a champ!
Inakahama Beach
We wrapped up the day playing in the sand and watching sunset on Inakahama Beach. This is the white sand beach we were looking for! I brought our swimsuits but it was brisk and the waves seemed intense. Maybe it’s a better swimming spot at other times. Sometimes of the year you can also spot sea turtles nesting here. The sunset was gorgeous and this was the perfect end to our Yakushima adventure and signified the closure of our Japan trip as a whole since we were headed back to the western world in a few short days.
Stop by the East China Sea Observatory and Sunset Hill Observation Deck for beautiful view points and photos along the way!
We didn’t make it to the Yakushima-Todai Lighthouse. This was on my itinerary for the second day when we were on the wildlife road as it is so close but due to the road closure we couldn’t go. It didn’t make sense to go after Inakahama because it was dark since we stayed until sunset.
Where to Eat on Yakushima Island with Toddlers
Yakushima Restaurants on the South Side
Hachiman – Our Airbnb host recommended this restaurant and called to get us a table. It was very traditional and focused on local seafood. It was very good and had a buzzy atmosphere, floor seats, and kid toys (much needed and appreciated!)
“At Pesca” – We had an awesome lunch at this casual spot. Think fried chicken, veggie tempura, beer, and takoyaki (fried octopus balls)! The owner was a friendly expat and Marin even bought a puka shell necklace.
Yakushima Restaurants on the North Side
Panorama – This place is awesome. It was my favorite restaurant we ate at in Yakushima. It was trendy and delicious. Definitely recommend.
Kitchen HUB Dining – We had lunch here. It has pizza and some other western fare if that’s what you’re looking for. The boys liked the ice cream!
Kagoshima Yakiniku Horumon – We ate here on our last night and it was so good! We were tired from an action-packed trip and it was the comfort food and vibe we needed. We love yakiniku!
Central Yakushima Restaurants
Kirankuya – This is an honorable mention because we didn’t actually go, but we tried to. This soba noodle spot looked so good and is literally in someone’s house. That being the reason why they have limited hours and run out when they run out!
Warung Karang – When we couldn’t get a spot at Kirankuya we went here instead. It is cute and in a nice location right on the water but we didn’t like the food. They served cold, fresh dishes you picked from a counter. It works for lunch as you road trip around the island, but don’t go out of your way.
Yakushima is not a common destination for a Japan vacation itinerary, (When we told Japanese people we were going here they were shocked!) but believe me you don’t want to miss this hidden gem!
Forest bathing in Yakushima,
– Ray