I love Tokyo and had been itching to get back since I last left! Grant and I visited when we were newlyweds in 2016 and had a blast, flash forward to 7 years and 2 kids later and we were thrilled to be back. We were excited to revisit some favorite places and we had things on our list we didn’t get to do on our last trip (we were only there 66 hours!). Not to mention the first time we visited we didn’t even try ramen…a disgrace.
Sushi, ramen… wait there’s other stuff besides food in Tokyo? Yes! There is a ton to do in Toyko, even with kids! We had an amazing time and came back through the city a few different times on our 3 week tour of Japan. Given it’s the largest city in the world there’s a lot to cover, so I’ve broken it down by neighborhood.
Where to Stay in Tokyo with Toddlers
Staying in Asakusa with Toddlers
We stayed in Asakusa because it was inexpensive and we stayed here last time so I was familiar. However, it is not the most centrally located neighborhood so you’ll want to be strategic about your daily plans to avoid excess time on the metro. (Thus, this neighborhood guide was born!)
The good news about staying in Asakusa is we were right beside the beautiful Senso-Ji Temple, a highlight of Tokyo. When everyone’s sleep schedule was off from jetlag one of us would take baby Hobie for 5 am strolls in his pajamas around the temple grounds as to not wake up Marin! It was a sacred place to start the day, albeit early!
Funny story: When we arrived in Tokyo it was nighttime and we were delirious from the 14 hour flight from Atlanta. I was determined to save money by taking the metro instead of a cab. I also thought it would be more efficient. I put the hotel in my map and we struggled with all of our bags across a busy intersection only to realize we were at the wrong hotel!
We were staying at the Tosei Hotel Cocone Asakusa and my map took us to Tosei Hotel Cocone Asakusa Kuramae. This one extra word at the end of the name was cut off on my Google Maps app. You think I would have learned my lesson having done this in Prague just months earlier! The bummer part was this hotel was nicer than ours and kind of a tease. Thankfully, our hotel was less than 2 km away but we still opted for a cab based on exhaustion!
Staying in Ginza with Toddlers
When we came back through Tokyo in between visiting Nikko and Kyoto and stayed right in the mix in the middle of Ginza at Hotel Musse Ginza Meitetsu. I splurged on this room for location but it was tiny! The hotel breakfast at Ginza Choshoku Lab was really cool though. There were a lot of little dishes to choose from. I enjoyed trying the tamago kake gohan (raw egg on rice) and shabu shabu (meat hot pot). This breakfast truly was a treat given that our entire Japan trip it seemed like no one ate breakfast or if they did it was at 7-11 (ourselves included out of lack of options!).
Staying in Kamata with Toddlers
Finally, we stayed at a suite in Kamata near the airport. I wanted a place with a kitchenette and laundry since it was the end of our trip and we needed to get ready for our big flight home. I hate getting home with a ton of clothes to wash!
Most of the hotels we stayed in had cute amenity kits for the kids with cartoon toothbrushes and slippers! (The exception being out Kamata one, which didn’t even have a check-in person but instead a phone number to a call center!)
What to do with Toddlers in Asaksua / Taito City
1. Senso-Ji Temple
I love Senso-Ji Temple. It is historic and beautiful with a serene vibe amidst the bustling city. Like I mentioned, since we were staying nearby we strolled around the grounds multiple times. Nearby Nakamise shopping street is a great spot for snacks and souvenirs.
2. Ueno Park
After the temple, swing by Ueno Park. This is a beautiful green space in the city and and there is a nice kids’ playground across from the main entrance to the zoo.
3. Skytree
We considered visiting the top of Skytree but opted for an exterior view instead! On one of our first jet-lagged mornings we went on a walkabout and it was still closed.
If in the area, stop at Koume Children’s Park for a small playground on the way. We also saw a “sumo in the wild”! But seriously we were shocked to turn the corner and see a real-life sumo wrestler just leaving the gym.
3. Hole in the Wall Ramen
We had ramen nearly daily on our Japan trip, but our favorite spot was a dive we found in Asakusa. I don’t know the name but if you see the yellow sign below, stop! It’s so tasty. (It’s on an intersection corner, northeast of the Senso-Ji Temple.)
We also had some fire ramen at the metro station! Seriously, just try it everywhere.
What to do with Toddlers in Shinjuku
4. Tokyo Toy Museum
Funny story: On our long-haul flight from Atlanta to Tokyo we met another family traveling with a toddler. We didn’t talk much but exchanged knowing eyes when walking up and down the aisle 8 hours in. While visiting the Tokyo Toy Museum we ran into them! Don’t worry it gets weirder, we also ran into them in Fukuoka, 13 hours away! A glitch in the matrix for sure.
When you get off the metro stop for the Toy Museum you’ll see the Fire Museum. This is sponsored by the Tokyo Fire Department and it’s free to visit. The kids had fun looking at the big trucks.
5. Michelin Star Ramen
You may be thinking… Michelin Star with kids? But this is totally do-able and chill. The only hard part about going to Soba House Konjiki Hototogisu is the wait. You have to get a number and while you can leave the queue to walk around, you have to be back as soon as your name is called or they’ll give your spot away. While waiting we actually had a little appetizer at a restaurant around the corner due to hungry toddlers!
Honorable Mention: Golden Gai
This is an honorable mention. When Grant and I visited Toyko 7 years prior we spent late night hours tucked inside tiny bars in Golden Gai and it was a trip highlight for sure. We strolled through it this time during the day and as with most nightlife spots midday it was more ick than cool. But the windy street filled with tiny bars is neat to check out, so if in the area do a walk-through with kids or even better if you have a trusty babysitter, go on a date night!
6. Taiyaka Wakaba
Taiyaka is the Japanese dessert shaped like a fish. They are sweet on the inside and pretty yummy! We planned to try them at Taiyaka Wakaba, a famous confectionery, but settled on some streetside ones instead. They were still delicious!
What to do with Toddlers in Harajuku
7. Shopping in Harajuku
Taekshita Street is perfect for tween girls, but toddler boys liked it okay too. We popped in Mooosh Squishy and the stuffies were cute but not really our style. Marin more so enjoyed the giant rainbow cotton candy!
We like to buy the kids a small toy while traveling so they can build a memorable collection of useful souvenirs. We hopped in the Kiddy Land store and I was overwhelmed with sensory overload. I can’t imagine what it was like for a toddler. It was madness! Like many stores in Tokyo, it was 6 levels high and packed! We randomly grabbed some Disney bath bombs and got out of there!
8. Meiji Shrine & Yoyogi Park
My favorite part of Harajuku is the Meiji Shrine. It is beautiful and I don’t know what’s more sacred, the shrine itself or the greenspace in bustling Tokyo! Start at the shrine and then walk down to Takeshita Street through Yoyogi Park. Bonus points if you bring a picnic!
What to do with Toddlers in Shibuya
9. Omakase
Again, you may be thinking… omakase with toddlers? When it comes to doing what we love while traveling (nice restaurants, wine tasting, etc) just because we have young kids we don’t eliminate, we modify. So while there are countless options for amazing omakase in Tokyo, I was limited to find a kid-friendly one, and it was great! We went to Sushidan, which is tucked in the back of a food hall in the bottom of a mixed use concept, Eat Play Works. The food was great and the chefs were so cool. One of them had even been to where we live in Costa Rica! (We still keep in touch on Instagram!)
10. Mega Don Quijote
This store is wild! Another mulit level, packed to the gills, junk palace! But it is a sight to see and from the aquarium out front to the gadgets inside, it’s worth an entertaining stop.
What to do with Toddlers in Ginza
11. Brunch
Ginza is the bougie shopping district of Tokyo with high-end shops everywhere. We stopped in for brunch at Bills. It is actually an Australian restaurant and was the perfect reprieve for the kids from the exclusively Japanese diet we were on. (And remember the aforementioned breakfast at 7-11 comment? This brunch is divine in comparison.) Think, yogurt bowls, avocado toast, and eggs benedict. It is upscale but welcoming to kids, and while you likely have to wait, the view from the lobby is great!
What to do with Toddlers in Chuo City
12. Tsukiji Outer Market
Since we had last visited, the actual fish market and tuna auction take place in another location, but the vibrant Tsukiji Outer Market is just as I remembered! Crowded and delicious. The fresh tuna is so good and we loved everything from the street stall poke bowl to the chef’s choice sushi sampler at one of the restaurants. We didn’t queue for uni at Uni Tora, but we did try it in our sushi sampler. The verdict: It’s growing on me, Grant is still not a fan, and toddler Marin even gave it a taste!
13. Kokyo Gaien National Garden
There is a lot of green space around the Imperial Palace, and knowing the long-haul flight that was ahead of us, we ran around the park with the boys on our last night.
14. teamLab Planets
This was so cool! It was recommended by our neighbor who has teenagers so we were unsure if it would be a good fit for toddlers, but it was great! It is an experiential museum and felt very Tokyo. Heads up there is water and the floor is squishy in parts so don’t bring a stroller, but we had Hobie in the Ergobaby carrier and it was perfect.
What to do with Toddlers in Kamata
Not much! We stayed here to be closer to the Haneda airport our last two nights but this was definitely my least favorite neighborhood in Tokyo. It was basically one big outdoor low-end shopping mall. We wanted to end our trip with some delicious Japanese food, but when we perused around Bourbon Road all we found were seedy restaurants specializing in foreign fare (British pub, Balinese joint, you name it!).
That’s a wrap! Tokyo has plenty to do for young kids, whether it’s kid-centric activities like the Toy Museum and playgrounds, or letting them tag along to try their first omakase and uni. You’re going to love it. I know I do.
Chasing toddlers in Tokyo,
-Ray